Storm Sense-Fixing your fencing

Posted on January 5, 2012 by foresteditor

Fences provide practical privacy and shelter against the blustery weather, but can also bear the brunt of much of the bad weather, be it rain or high winds.  It is essential that fences are in tip top condition to avoid any large repair jobs, especially after the strong winds hitting the country recently.

 

Here are some top tips on how to fix common fencing problems: 

1. RUNNING REPAIRS

Easy fence panel installation
Installing or replacing a damaged fence panel is much quicker and easier if you use a purpose-designed post support system. The ‘FenceFast’ easy-fit range, available from most garden centres, is particularly simple to use and is the only type to cater for almost any post size and design:

  • Make a pilot hole for the post support spike using a metal rod or bar (this helps position the post correctly and alerts you of underground obstructions)
  • Insert the spike into the pilot hole and, using a specially designed driving tool, hammer the spike into the ground with a sledgehammer
  • Frequently check the position of the spike with a spirit level, correcting as required, until the box is just above ground level
  • Insert the fence post into the box and tighten up the retaining bolts for a secure hold

Easy fence post repair
Thankfully there is a labour-saving way to repair a broken or rotten fence post that was originally set in concrete, without the effort of digging up and replacing the concrete itself:

  • Cut off the damaged post flush with the concrete
  • Place a purpose-designed easy-fit ‘repairfast’ spike (available from garden centres) around the old post base
  • Using a drive tool, hammer the ‘repairfast’ into the existing foundation
  • The new post can now be fixed into place

Click here to watch our How To videos

Inside track on insurance
Unfortunately, although storm and wind damage is a standard part of most household insurance policies, be aware that this does not normally include items such as fences and garden sheds! Damage to a ten-year-old timber store, for example, could be deemed the result of ‘wear and tear’ rather than simply the effects of a storm. The best advice is to check the terms of your policy with your individual insurance group. The good news is that if you are covered, a single claim is unlikely to increase the cost of your annual premium. 

2. PREVENT AND PROTECT

 Well-wood check
While wood is a beautiful, practical and long-lasting outdoor material the weather can take its toll. A quick annual ‘health-check’ can help avoid the cost and disruption of future damage:

 

  • First check the condition of all your garden fences, posts, structures and stores, securing any loose joints and replacing weakened or broken items
  • Then treat with a good timber care product to enhance and protect the surface

 

Install to last

Are your fence panels installed to last? Help your fencing to resist wet and windy weather by following these basic rules:

 

  • To keep fences firm and rot-free check whether they are actually installed correctly. Pressure-treated timber has been fixed with an anti-rot preservative during manufacture so it is protected from the elements – and direct ground contact – for around 15 years. Dip-treated panels, however, need a pressure-treated gravel board beneath them to prevent direct ground contact and extend panel life
  • Invest in suitable posts. Heavier fence panels and most garden pergolas will benefit from the added strength of 100mm posts
  • Check your posts are long enough before fixing. Always ensure posts are sunk at least 600mm (2’) into the ground. If you are erecting panels over an uneven or sloping surface remember you may require longer posts in places

 

Quality first

As with anything in life, you get what you pay for. Whether you need to replace a complete garden boundary, arch, pergola or shed buy the best quality you can afford; you’ll be minimising repairs and replacements later on. Where you position these items is equally important. If you can’t avoid an exposed spot then look for a style that can cope with the elements. Extra heavy-weight, lattice-work fence panels can be an especially good buy – they provide strength and durability whilst allowing the worst of the winds to pass harmlessly through.

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The Beginners’ Guide To Composting

Posted on November 4, 2011 by foresteditor

Regular lashings of rich, nutritious compost really can transform your plants, flowers, fruits and vegetables from average to outstanding; and this is one case when home-made is definitely best.  So no more excuses – why not start now ready for next season’s mulching?  It’s easier than you think and all the ingredients are literally in your own back yard, especially now the trees are shedding their leaves.

  Six Simple Steps

 We’ve come up with the perfect recipe for making your own soil-enriching compost:

Step 1 – Choose the right composter

 A good composter should be compact, allow plenty of air to circulate and offer easy access.  These days there are plenty of ready-made affordable ones available to make life easier.

    Step 2 – Build up layers

Good compost needs just two main ingredients: ‘brown’ and ‘green’.  Heap on plenty of ‘brown’ materials (such as dead leaves and plants, straw or sawdust) and layer with ‘greens’ (grass mowings and any vegetable kitchen waste).  Try to use more browns than greens as this will make your compost decompose better. This is a great way of recycling your food waste.

  Step 3 – Make it moist

If the materials you use are fairly dry, water your compost heap from time to time to keep it ‘sponge-moist’.  This helps the micro-organisms to sustain the decomposing process, but don’t over-wet or those valuable nutrients will be washed away.

   Step 4 – Mix thoroughly

Air is important to the bio-degrading process.  Like water, oxygen helps the bacteria to break down the waste.  Oxygenate your compost by forking it over occasionally.

Step 5 – What to avoid

Don’t use diseased plants or tough weeds such as dandelions and couch grass; you’ll simply be spreading them back onto your garden later.  Burn these, along with any twigs or large woody chunks that won’t decompose.  Steer clear of anything containing chemicals, and don’t recycle meats or dairy products that could attract pests.

Step 6 – Ready to treat your garden  

   Your compost is complete when it looks dark and rich in colour, it should feel soft and crumbly in your hands and have a pleasant earthy smell.  This normally takes around 6 months but if a few larger bits are left these will continue to decompose on your garden.  Use your finished compost for beds, borders and shrubs as well as the kitchen garden (but be careful not to use unfinished compost for growing seedlings as the active micro-organisms will damage tender roots). 

Improve your soil by forking in about a bucket of compost per square metre, digging to a depth of about 6“and being careful not to damage plant roots.  Compost can also be used as mulch over the surface of the soil; protecting exposed plant roots from the sun, retaining moisture and releasing goodness deep into the soil

  Happy composting!

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Gardening Tips For October

Posted on October 7, 2011 by foresteditor

Now autumn is definitely here, it’s time to get out in the garden before the winter sets in and prepare for the cold weather to come. Here are some ideas and tips on what you should be doing to get the most out of your garden in October.

  • Bring in tender plants-Keep and eye on the weather forecast and in bring  any plants that may be damaged by early frosts, put them in a bright frost-free area.
  • Rake up leaves-It’s a job we all hate, but the lawn or patio will look unsightly, so it’s worth getting them up. Plus they can be added to your composter!
  • Pull up summer bedding-Pull out any tatty looking bedding and put them in the composter-throw any diseased plants away though as you don’t want these in your compost
  • Pick apples and pears-Harvesting will be in full swing this month. To check if the fruit is ready to pick, cup it with your hand and gently twist it. If it doesn’t come off, leave it a few more days before trying it again
  • Cut back Asparagus-The old stems of asparagus can be off at ground level and composted. Remove any weeds at the same time
  • Protect Winter Salad-Keep the worst of the weather off by covering your plants with fleece
  • Remove damaged areas of turf-Simply lift worn areas of lawn either reseed or relay turf. The warm moist conditions at this time of the year mean that it will quickly re-establish
  • Pick late flowers- Bring some of the beauty of the garden indoors by cutting late blooms such as chrysanthemums
  • Put up greenhouse insulation-Keep the cold out by putting up bubble insulation. It’s available on the roll at garden centres, so you can buy exactly the right amount you need 
  • Harvest  root vegetables-Such as carrots, beetroot and turnips 

 Planting

 Plant spring bedding-Fill any gaps with spring bedding such as wallflowers. Most won’t flower until spring, but if you want some colour before then, try Viola ‘sorbet mixed’ You can also add some colour on your patio in pots and raised beds

  • Plant Lillies in Pots-Autumn is a good time to plant lilies, as they can grow roots before the winter weather arrives and then get off to a good start in spring. In pots, allow 5cm between bulbs

 -Plant Bulbs for Christmas-Plant early varieties of Hyacinth such as ‘Delft Blue’, ‘Pink Pearl’ and ‘Jan Bos’, in early October. Similarly early varieties of amaryllis such as ‘Minerva’, should be planted in mid-October. Wait until November to plant Paperwhite narcissus.

 Grow your own vegetables  

It’s a great time to start growing your own vegetables and if you don’t have a vegetable plot or allotment a raised bed is a great start:

-Plant Spring Cabbage- For some welcome fresh greens next spring, plant 15cm apart, in rows 30cm apart. Good spring cabbage varieties include ‘Duncan’ and ‘Pixie’

-Plant Onions- The onion variety Troy has been proven to survive harsh winters and produce great crops in summer that store well.

-Plant Winter Salads-Such as lettuce, chicory, endive, oriental mustards and mizuna, you will need to protect from hard frosts and slugs and snails though

-Plant Garlic- The garlic variety ‘Solent Wight’ is suitable for planting in autumn

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Guide To Buying A Garden Shed

Posted on September 9, 2011 by foresteditor

With Autumn just around the corner, now’s the time to think about tidying your garden up and making room for your tools, furniture and any plants that need protecting from the elements. So now is a great time to buy a garden shed if you don’t already have one.

 Garden sheds come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and it’s sometimes hard to know where to start when choosing a new one.  Here are some handy tips on everything you need to know about buying a new shed.

 Shed Size

When buying a garden shed there are a number of things that you need to consider before making your final purchase.  First of all you to decide what you are going to use your shed for.  Will it be just for storage, or do you also need work space?  If both workspace and storage are required then a larger shed is probably what you need.  It’s also a good idea to check the ridge and eaves height of the sheds to ensure you can stand up straight in your new shed.

 If you require a general storage shed then you need to consider how big the items are that you need to store, remembering that you may need to access all of these items at different times and you need space to move in and out of the shed too.  You should also consider the width of the door to ensure you have enough space to get your items in and out with ease.  Some models of shed come with double doors.

 Most sheds come with windows, but some don’t have windows at all.  These are sometimes a good idea when you want to store your items out of sight to make them more secure.  Shed windows are usually made with Perspex or styrene.  If you need extra ventilation in your shed make sure you buy a shed with an opening window.

 If you are replacing an existing shed, then the size and shape of your shed may already be predetermined by the base onto which you intend to build it.

 Shed Shape

You may be faced with a choice of an apex shed or a pent shed.  This actually refers to the style and shape of the roof.

Apex Sheds

A shed with an apex roof means there is a ridge running along the length of the shed with the roof sections sloping upwards from either side meeting at the ridge.  This type of shed is a popular choice mainly because of it’s traditional and attractive appearance.  

Pent Sheds

A Pent shed has a single sloping roof section usually sloping down towards the back allowing rain water to run off the building at the back.  This usually creates generous head room within the shed.  This style of shed also lends it self to being put up against a wall or fence.

 Locating your Shed

When positioning your shed you need to consider a number of different factors.  If you intend to access it frequently you may want to consider building it close to your house.  This may also prove to be more suitable if you intend to run electrics or a telephone line to it.  Always remember that you must employ a qualified electrician to do any work of this nature.

 You may want your shed to be in the shade to avoid overheating in the height of summer, however, you also need to remember the risks of falling branches and rotting leaf mulch may have on your shed over the years.

 Never locate your shed in an area that could flood with heavy rainfall.  Standing water will accelerate to rotting process which may affect the stability of your shed in the long run.

 It is a good idea to ensure that you have a gap of at least 600mm (2’) around all four sides of your shed as this will be invaluable when you come to treat and protect your shed every year.

 Shed Construction

There are generally two options of finish for your garden shed – Overlap or shiplap timber. 

 Overlap timber is rough sawn to the touch.  The slats are nailed to the framing of the building with each overlapping the other creating a water tight external cladding.  Overlap sheds tend to be more rustic in appearance and are often an affordable option.

 Shiplap timber is a shaped and formed piece of timber. Each piece connects to the next with an interlocking tongue and groove joint. The finished panels are nailed into place creating a superior cladded finish to the outside of the shed.

 Treatment 

The timber used in the shed construction is usually finished with a factory applied surface treatment which provides some initial protection against fungal decay.  This is often referred to as a dip treatment.  A shed with this type of finish will need to be re-treated every year to protect the timber from rotting. 

 There are now, however, some sheds being offered with a pressure treated finish.  Treatment has been forced into the timber at high pressure in a vacuum chamber.  As the treatment penetrates the wood, this creates a more permanent barrier against insect attack and rot which means you don’t need to re-treat it every year. 

 Regardless of the anti rot treatment that has been applied during manufacture, your shed will still change colour over time, so if you want to maintain the factory finished look you will need to re-apply a colour based timber treatment regularly.

 Remember that timber is a natural material which will shrink and expand.  This movement is due to the moisture content within the wood which is down to the changing weather conditions. Any extreme changes will usually revert back over time.

 The best time to treat your shed is usually in Spring or Autumn when you have a dry day.  This means that the timber will not be too wet or dry ensuring you get the optimum absorption of treatment in the timber.  Do not treat you timber when it’s raining as the treatment will simply be washed away.

Roofs & Floors

Many garden sheds use OSB (Orientated Strand Board) for roofs and floors, but some of the more expensive models may have shiplap or boarded roofs and floors which will make for a more structurally sound construction.  Roofs are generally finished off with mineral felt providing a water tight finish.  Sheds should always be installed onto pressure treated bearers which will encourage air circulation under the shed floor and prevent the shed floor battens from coming into direct contact with the foundation. Without them, the damp would penetrate the floor and rise through the timbers causing the wood to rot.

 Preparation

All that is required before you start to build your shed is to ensure that you have a firm and level base on which to build it.  This would usually be a concrete or paving slab base.  If you try to build a shed or any garden building on an uneven surface you will have problems aligning and closing any doors and windows.

 How long will it take to build?

A standard garden shed should take no longer that a day to build and requires two people.  Your shed will be supplied with fixings, felt and instructions, but in addition to these you will need the following equipment:

  • Step ladder
  • Power screwdriver
  • Craft knife
  • Hammer
  • Spirit level

 Security

Thefts from garden sheds are on the increase, so check what door furniture your shed comes with.  A turn button doesn’t provide any secure fixing, but a hasp and staple or bolt should allow a padlock to be used.  Some higher specification sheds come with locks and keys.  There are various shed security kits on the market today which range from basic padlock sets, to more elaborate alarms and security lights. 

By choosing a shed with no windows you will be able to store your possessions away from prying eyes, therefore reducing the temptation to steal what’s inside. 

If you are going to store anything valuable in your shed check that it’s covered with your home insurance.

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Creating A Container Herb Garden

Posted on August 5, 2011 by foresteditor

A container herb garden could be a great choice if you haven’t got a garden or if you have limited space. Many herbs flourish really well in containers, and container herb gardens have the advantage that they can be positioned very near your kitchen door. The great thing about this is that when it’s wet or dark outside you can easily harvest the herbs you need, for whatever recipe you may want to follow for your cooking. If you think it’s too late in the season then you are wrong, you can create your container herb garden right now.

Choosing your herbs

You can buy your herbs as young plants or grow them from cuttings or seed. I recently bought some Basil at the supermarket and planted it out after a few days, it’s doing really well.

I recommend creating your container herb garden using selections from the following list of herbs:

Plant these at the centre of your container:

Chervil, dill, fennel, lemongrass

Plant these herbs at the edge of your container:

Basil, caraway, chives, marjoram, savory

Plant these herbs between the edge and the centre:

Coriander, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme

Unfortunately, Mint is not an ideal herb to have in a container with other herbs, due to its vigorous root system; it is much better in a pot on its own, as it tends to take over and the other herbs will suffer as a result.

What Sort of Container?

You’ve got lots of choice when it comes to containers; Terracotta pots are a popular choice but large ones can be  heavy and difficult to move around once. Plastic pots are a good alternative. However, I recommend considering a wooden container. Wood is attractive and it won’t freeze or break during bad weather. The advantage of using a pressure treated wooden container is that it will withstand rot for up to 15 years. You can of course have a go at building your own herb container  

If you want a good choice of herbs in your container herb garden, choose a container which has width of at least 36 inches (91cm). This size of container will enable you to plant around eight different herbs. You can of course use a container as small as a window box and plant just a couple of herbs.

What Container Compost to Use

Use good quality compost and mix it with perlite in the ratio of 1 part compost to 2 parts perlite. By adding perlite you will help to ensure that your container has good drainage. Choose compost which has added nutrient to get the herbs off to a good start.

How to Maintain Your Container Herb Garden

Your container should be kept in a position where it can enjoy a fair amount of sun during the day. Most herbs flourish in the sun. However, I currently have basil and chives in the shade and both are doing fine. My chives survived the harsh winter and have flowered twice since!

Keep your container well watered. The top of the compost will dry out very quickly but you can test for moisture levels by inserting your finger into the compost by about an inch. If the compost isn’t fairly moist, water the container.

After about a month you should begin watering your container regularly with a nutrient mix to make up for the nutrients that the container loses through watering.

At the end of the year when some of your herbs start to die back, remove the perennial herbs and put them in their own pots, and protect them as best you can from cold winter weather. These perennial herbs can be used the following year. The annuals will need to be purchased again in the spring.

Enjoy Your Herbs!

When you start using the herbs from your container herb garden you’ll notice the difference in taste from herbs you buy in shops and supermarkets. This taste difference and the convenience of having herbs ready to hand whenever you want them will make all the effort of creating your container herb garden well worthwhile and will inspire you to get creative in the kitchen!

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Guide To Buying a Summerhouse Or Log Cabin

Posted on July 8, 2011 by foresteditor

Garden summerhouses and log cabins come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and it’s sometimes hard to know where to start when choosing a new one.  Here are some  handy tips on everything you need to know about buying a new summerhouse or log cabin:

 Locating your summerhouse or log cabin

When positioning your summerhouse you need to consider a number of different factors. 

Location of the sun: Most people want to locate a summerhouse/log cabin in a sunny spot in the garden, so always check which way your garden faces.  Find a spot that is south facing, that way you will get the maximum amount of sun flooding in through the windows. Alternatively, you may want your summerhouse/log cabin to be in the shade to avoid overheating in the height of summer, however, you also need to remember the risks of falling branches and rotting leaf mulch may have on your summerhouse/log cabin over the years.

Consider whether you want to run electrics or a telephone line into the summerhouse/log cabin as this may impact on where you locate it.  Always remember that you must employ a qualified electrician to do any work of this nature. It’s a good time to do this when the base is being laid.

Never locate your summerhouse/log cabin in an area that could flood with heavy rainfall.  Standing water will accelerate the rotting process which may affect the stability of your summerhouse/log cabin in the long run.

It is a good idea to ensure that you have a gap of at least 600mm (2’) around your summerhouse/log cabin as this will be invaluable when you come to treat and protect it every year.

Do not build your summerhouse/log cabin too close to yours or your neighbour’s house, as this may contravene planning regulations. 

Planning Permission

Planning permission  is not normally required for domestic outbuildings which are used for a domestic purpose incidental to the enjoyment of the house.  However, you may require planning permission if any of the following apply (the list is not exhaustive):

  • Where you propose to erect within 5 metres of any part of your house.
  • If the total area of the ground covered by any buildings or other structures in the garden area (excluding the original, main house) is greater than 50% of the total garden area.
  • Where the height of the building is over 2.5m at the highest roof point.
  • If there is a condition on the original planning consent for your property which states that garden sheds/outhouses etc. cannot be erected with or without the consent of the local planning authority.
  • If your property is a listed building or within a conservation area or area of outstanding natural beauty, you will need to contact your local planning authority as development will be restricted.
  • Where you intend to run a business or store goods in connection with a business.
  • If part of the garden building will be nearer to the public highway than the existing house or any point 20 metres from that highway, whichever is nearer to the highway.

If your property is a listed building or in a conservation area, it is likely you will need the appropriate listed building/conservation area consent.  In some cases, properties can be subject to “restrictive covenants” preventing building in your back garden. You should check whether there are any restrictions on the property register at HM Land Registry against this type of development.  In which case, the consent of the person with the benefit of the restrictive covenant should be sought. The current planning permission at the property may contain a condition which omits permitted development rights or this might apply “en masse” to your local area. You should ask your local planning authority.

If you are in any doubt as to whether you can erect your garden building without planning permission, you should telephone your local planning authority who in most cases will be able to give you an answer straight away.

Construction

 Shiplap timber is a common material used in the construction of summerhouses.  It is a shaped and formed piece of timber, made out of kiln dried timber for stability. Each piece connects to the next with an interlocking tongue and groove joint. The finished panels are nailed into place creating a superior cladded finish to the outside of the summerhouse.

Log cabins are constructed using interlocking logs, which lock together as they are being built. This is generally the most solid form of summerhouse construction.  The logs are made from kiln dried timber for material stability, although some material movement is still likely to occur in extreme weather conditions. The log thicknesses vary from 28, 34 to 33mm thick.  The thicker logs tend to offer greater heat retention and are often coupled with double glazing which should be a consideration if you are planning to use the building all year round.

Treatment

 The timber used in the shiplap construction is usually finished with a factory applied surface treatment which provides some initial protection against fungal decay.  This is often referred to as a dip treatment.  A summerhouse with this type of finish will need to be re-treated every year to protect the timber from rotting. 

There are now, however, summerhouses being offered with a pressure treated finish.  Treatment has been forced into the timber at high pressure in a vacuum chamber.  As the treatment penetrates the wood, this creates a more permanent barrier against insect attack and rot which means you don’t need to re-treat it every year. 

Regardless of the anti-rot treatment that has been applied during manufacture, your summerhouse will still change colour over time, so if you want to maintain the factory finished look you will need to re-apply a colour based timber treatment regularly.

Remember that timber is a natural material which will shrink and expand.  This movement is due to the moisture content within the wood which is down to the changing weather conditions. Any extreme changes will usually revert back over time.

The best time to treat your summerhouse is usually in spring or autumn when you have a dry day.  This means that the timber will not be too wet or dry ensuring you get the optimum absorption of treatment in the timber.  Do not treat your timber when it’s raining as the treatment will simply be washed away.

Log cabins are usually supplied untreated and as such the timber needs to be treated with a preservative and stain as soon as they are built. 

Roofs & Floors

 Many summerhouses use shiplap or boarded roofs and floors which will make for a more structurally sound construction.  Roofs are generally finished off with either shingles or mineral felt providing a water tight finish. 

All garden buildings should be installed onto pressure treated bearers which will encourage air circulation under the summerhouse/log cabin floor and prevent the floor battens from coming into direct contact with the foundation. Without them, the damp would penetrate the floor and rise through the timbers causing the wood to rot.

 

Preparation

 All that is required before you start to build your Summerhouse is to ensure that you have a firm and level base on which to build it.  This would usually be a concrete or paving slab base.  If you try to build any garden building on an uneven surface you will have problems aligning and closing the doors and windows.

Security

 Thefts from garden’s are on the increase, so check that your garden building comes with locks and keys.  There are various security kits on the market today which range from basic padlock sets, to more elaborate alarms and security lights. 

If you are going to store anything valuable in your garden building check that it’s covered with your home insurance. 

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Allotment Bob’s Expert Advice – Using a Cold Frame

Posted on May 6, 2011 by foresteditor

My colleague-‘Allotment Bob’ has kindly offered to impart some advice on how to use a cold frame.

Using a cold frame at this time of year is essential if you want to grow your own vegetables such as Tomatoes and Butternut Squash, or salads and harden off seedlings or plant plugs. The weather is still cool at times and frosts are still likely, plus the soil has not warmed up yet.

Cold frames are designed to provide extra insulation for your plants, which will really help them to thrive. They not only keep your plants safe, but also provide the ability to regulate the temperature and amount of natural sunlight to keep your plants at their best.

Seedlings or young plants taken from the cossetted greenhouse and planted into the ground can certainly effect the growth or even damage them. The hardening off process introduces the plant to the outside gradually, enabling it to adapt and thrive in the outside world.

Take the plant from the greenhouse and place in the cold frame and open the lid for a few hours in the warmth of the afternoon. After a few days, leave the frame open all through the day, just closing it up at night or if it gets really cold-do not forget to water regularly.

By the end of a week to ten days you should be fine to leave the frame open day and night, just sheltering the plants from the worst of the cold. After a fortnight the plant can come out and go into the ground or cloches removed.

The ideal location for a cold frame is a southern or south eastern exposure with a slight slope to ensure good drainage and maximum solar absorption. A sheltered spot with a wall or hedge to the north will provide protection against winter winds. Sinking the frame into the ground (if the soil has been pre-fed then even better!) will also provide protection, using the earth for insulation, it is therefore advisable to purchase a cold frame made from pressure treated timber.  Most cold frames are light enough to be moved from one section of the garden to another.

There are four main types of cold frames:

Wooden cold frame

Aluminium and Glass cold frame

Plastic cold frame

Cloches

 You can of course have a go at making your own cold frame if you’re a dab hand at DIY!

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Grow Your Own

Posted on April 15, 2011 by foresteditor

If, like me you’ve decided you want to start growing some of your own vegetables, you’ll be happy to know that you’re in good company-gardening is still the nation’s favourite pastime and a third of us are now trying to grow their own. Growing your own vegetables can give you a great sense of achievement and with the increasing price of fresh produce; it can work out a much cheaper and healthier option. Not only that, but if you have children it can be a great way to teach them about where their food comes from, and they will have great fun. Plus it’s a fantastic way of ensuring you get your 5 a day.
Space doesn’t have to be an issue, as you can easily start off by growing something easy such as tomatoes in a grow bag, container or raised bed. Potatoes are another easy-to-grow vegetable and you’ll need to be planting your main crop of potatoes or your tomato plants around mid-late April, when the weather is definitely frost-free! Growing herbs in a container on your patio is also a very easy way to start off-I’ve found chives to be great, as they are a hardy perennial and they have beautiful flowers.
If you start your vegetables off in pots (some vegetables will do better if started off in a greenhouse or cold frame) you may want to move them into a raised bed; raised beds are a great way of sectioning off an area of your garden for vegetables or fruit, plus they are ideal if you have problems bending down to do your gardening. Using raised beds will increase your chances of growing great fruit and vegetables as the soil will be slightly warmer, space will be used more efficiently, drainage is far better and less digging is required. I have a large raised bed with a crop of second early potatoes in and I’m planning on planting a main crop in the next few weeks, I’m also planning on planting lettuce and spring onions in that bed too.

Gardening Tips
I have a slug problem, so I’ve been using a tip that was provided by one of our followers on Twitter, who entered one of our competitions to win a mini greenhouse- which is to surround plants/vegetables with coffee grounds-I’m trying it, so I’m hoping it works, as I would prefer not to use pellets if possible. Slugs don’t like coffee, but it also makes great fertiliser as it contains Nitrogen and other minerals, so you can mix it into the soil too.
So make the most of all the Bank Holidays we have coming up and be inspired to grow your own!
Here are some of other great tips we received-if you have any tips, please let me know!
• Use old bubble wrap to line containers. It helps warm the compost, preventing root damage from late frosts
• Clean out the greenhouse and disinfect it to stop any germs going on to your new plants.
• If you’re new to gardening, plant easy vegetables ,like potatoes or strawberries- even small patios can house them
• Put out feeders for birds, fresh water. Encouraging birds into the garden will help reduce insects and slugs
• Get rid of those weeds now before they take hold. Weed it ‘n’ Reap
• Empty your compost bin and dig it into your borders to give beautiful blooms in the summer
• PREPARE! Dig over, weed, fertilise, dig over again, mulch, dig over. Can’t emphasise PREPARE enough.
To see more great tips log onto Twitter and search under #springgardentip

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Spring Forward!

Posted on March 25, 2011 by foresteditor

Hi Everyone,

Don’t forget to set your clocks forward by one hour on Sunday 27th March 2011, officially the start of British Summer Time! We may be losing an hour but with extra daylight in the evenings and a long summer ahead, there’s plenty to look forward to after the clocks change. Being able to enjoy the lighter evenings in the garden after work, is one of the many benefits. I’m going shopping this weekend to get some inspiration for the garden and some colour to brighten up my raised beds!

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Spring is nearly here!

Posted on March 18, 2011 by foresteditor

Hi Everyone,
I’m getting quite excited, as it’s the weekend and I’m going to get out in the garden. I attempted to grow some veg last year, and am hoping to do the same again this year-but better! I’ve been searching the net for tips, as I’m sure it must be time to get the first earlies in. I thought I would share this with you- http://www.startuk.org/eat/how-to-grow-your-own.aspx?gclid=CPiOrNKS2KcCFQMjfAodkHBI-g
for all the budding grow your own people.  It’s informative, and easy to understand for beginners like me. Happy Gardening!

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